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Suggestions? (Syzygies especially looking for you)

 
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 11:22 am    

Suggestions? (Syzygies especially looking for you)
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This thread was deleted at the KK forum:

johnnyboy wrote:
Syzy, Couldn't help but see in the lump review your lump eating K's tile has been removed.

Unfortunately I don't have privledges to respond there, so thought I'd ask here.

What did you coat/paint your K with? Does it come in gloss?

I'm in the similar/same delima with a #5. I've repaired my K cracks with a moldable refractory material. Comes in a brick, break off a piece, roll between hands to shape like a rope, then pound in with rubber mallet. Then fire the K for an all nighter at 400-500 F.

Now I think I want to make the surface look like the BGE (glossy).

Problem is I also have tile falling off the dome. Seems no end to the tile falling off. The vibration alone from beating the refractory material into kamado cracks with a rubber mallet, tile was falling off. Just not sure it's worth the effort to remove/clean/re-adhere all the tile. So am thinking of doing the same as Sizygies.

Pics before:


Crack Repaired with Moldable Refractory Material, starting cure:
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 1:48 pm    

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Probably best to delete it there... some n00b might be confised and think that was one of Dennis's KK's...
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 3:07 pm    

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I just don't see what the problem is. Just contact the Kamado Company and ask about your "Lifetime Warranty". Twisted Evil Twisted Evil Twisted Evil Twisted Evil
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 4:19 pm    

Repair Instructions
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Syzygies wrote:
I happen to be in the midst of a different repair: The original owner used lots of construction site salvage in our house, the 1/2" pipe leading to our shower head had four completely unnecessary and completely incompetent solder joints (it's a straight shot, should be a single piece of pipe), and one joint failed, rotting our wall and floor. I know nothing of soldering, so I decided to get some practice making yard art (my joints held):



People write me regularly about my K repair; here's a representative answer:

Here is a thread in which much of this gets discussed:


http://www.kamado.com/discus/messages/1/14488.html?1176978432

Quote:
I mixed latex medium with the best grade of thinset mortar and a generous quantity of concrete dye, to obtain a black Kamado that looks great, like an honest barbeque pit. I recommend this solution without hesitation to anyone. This summer I plan to apply another coat, darken the grout on the remaining tiles to match, and seal. However, with no tiles to worry about, this K weathered a year's rain (usually but not always covered) just fine.


A little goes a long ways with concrete dye, which comes in boring colors, I decided that my best bet was to use way too much black dye. A tiny box of concrete dye will turn an entire bag of mortar mix quite black.

The best mortar mix specifies to mix with water, but using instead liquid acrylic medium meant for the cheaper stuff makes the strongest combination. Go to a brickyard, they sell everything (including great sponges meant for this kind of work) and can give better advice than Home Depot.

I saw no reason to use grout for a final surface, the black mortar mix makes a great surface. I haven't sealed mine through two rainy winters, the sealant is as expensive as the rest of the materials together, and I want to put another coat of mortar on first. I've read somewhere that some sealants are very toxic; some have been recalled. Use very carefully, outdoors, wearing all manner of protection.

One can buy fibers to add to mortar mix. Not clear if the synthetic fibers will simply melt, but they worked for me, there are better alternatives. I used more than the recipe called for, and many of the fibers bunched up and came off the surface, leaving a smoother effect than I could have obtained otherwise. This is probably a totally unnecessary step, but you could experiment.

I bought a dark grout to use with my remaining tiles so they match the black better. Haven't gotten around to using it yet.

A crucial issue is to level the mortar so the draft door continues to seal well. Alternatively, one makes a gasket afterwards. This is on my list; I need a gasket also for the main rim, as my bands are beyond adjustment; I masking tape leaks now on low & slow cooks.

As for your desire for a shiny surface? Quick answer is to buy a shiny sealer. Use it outside for the ventilation, make sure it hasn't been recalled for toxic gases.

Longer answer: I aborb life's lessons slowly, but one I'm working on now is to let everything reveal itself, without my imposing a form on it inappropriate to the circumstances.

Alsatian wine makers are trying to reveal the grape, while other regions try to blend to impose a style. Think Alsatian.

Our pizza has gotten much better after "going with the flow" of what our materials (home-ground flour) and oven (K) want to do. It isn't the pizza of my dreams on a Sicilian island, but we love it for what it is.

I've tried to paint like Diebenkorn; we're going to see his Stanford show tomorrow. I can't, because he was conducting an honest experiment with his materials, and arrived at magical outcomes. For me to attempt to replicate his results with my different materials is a dishonest experiment, I would do better to channel his thought processes with my materials.

What would Thai cooks use in your area, if they'd settled there for a hundred years? They probably wouldn't drive an hour for ingredients, they'd adapt.

So the Kamado wants to be what it wants to be. Use proper materials, and accept how they come out, coaxe them to reveal their true selves. You probably won't end up with a green egg, but you might like what you end up with instead.

I have the impression that these issues have been worked out with Komodo Kamados, so also save your pennies! Cool
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 4:23 pm    

Repair Material
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johnnyboy wrote:


The moldable refractory stuff is called Plastec 85P
http://www.refwest.com/browseproducts/PLASTECH-85P-55--(STD).HTML

(You may have to cut/paste the link into your browser, I had to; however I'm editing trying to fix that. Sorry, no can do, doesn't like the (STD).HTML, but it's part of the link.

Buddy is also telling me about some other stuff comes in a caulk tube, good for 1,800 degrees.

Moldable Plastec 85P is good for large cracks, but no so for the small cracks as it's not a smooth consistency.

If you're familiar with sanded versus unsanded grout; you could call this moldable stuff graveled.

The Plastec 85P has a 6 month shelf life. I have more than I'll ever use in that time, so if anyone wants some let me know. I have a few pounds of it I'm willing to share.


Here is the link again: http://tinyurl.com/62mtwb
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